General Levels:
pH: between 6 and 8. Most turtles can actually tolerate pH lower than 6, but the friendly bacteria in the filter can’t.
Chlorine: 0.
Ammonia: 0.
Nitrite: 0.5 ppm or less (preferably zero).
Nitrate: 40 ppm or less.
Starting the Bacteria Conversion Process
In order to cultivate good bacteria growth in the tank, “Cycling”, the nitrogen cycle needs to happen.
The nitrogen cycle in a healthy aquatic environment:
- The turtle waste causes ammonia to be released into the water. (Ammonia is toxic to turtles).
- Nitrosonomas marina bacteria feeds on the ammonia and converts it to Nitrite (Nitrite is also toxic to turtles).
- Nitrobacter and Nitrospira bateria feed on the Nitrite and turn it into Nitrate (Nitrate, in small amounts, is not toxic to turtles)
Regular water changes will keep the Nitrate under control.
Once this process is complete, the Ammonia and Nitrite levels in your tank should be at zero (or very close to zero) and it should be safe to introduce your turtle.
I recommend testing the water with test strips 1-2 times a day during this process. After this is complete, I only test twice a week.
I will say that once I use out these strips that I have, I will switching to a water test kit like this one, Link.
Tap Water + Conditioner vs. Distilled Water
FIRST AND FOREMOST, check that your turtle will be okay with distilled water. Mud turtles are, but I do not claim to know that all turtles will be!
According to everthing I have read, using tap water and adding conditioner should be fine. I used it for about 4 months, but had continual problems keeping the water clear. I switched to distilled water yesterday, and by this morning, the water was clearer than I have ever seen it.
I highly recommend buying distilled water, it is cheap enough that past the initial gallons to fill up the tank, maintenance on it shouldn’t come out to too much more on your regular grocery bill.